When it comes to any sports performance program, an athlete must know where their threshold and boundaries lie. In weight training, you can calculate you 3RM, in climbing its your ability to on site. I've dubbed the term "flashability"...I think it has more flair.
So for DoM, flashability is your ability to walk up, read and send a problem. Anything that takes more than three attempts becomes a project. It will give you a good indicator of where to set the bar when building 3x3 routines.
I do my flashability when we reset at the Shakti, my main gym and where I set every six weeks. Before I used the reset at Allez Up to gauge my routines. I do this so I have a variety of unsent problems to test my peak performance.
So back on track, I usually can have some V5 and maybe even V6 in my pyramids so I start my flashability test on V2 and work my way up a 4x4 to V5. If I send all 4 V5, I continue on and try to send them all within that session. If not, I have projects for my next session. All the climbs that I send on that initial session become my pyramid routine.
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