First Routine-So you can start running 3x3 when you can climb three V2 on any given day. The first Pinnacle is building your first 3x3 routine. If you've seen the pyramid examples, keep this in mind. For those who haven't, here it is again. 3xV0
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So the routine seems simple enough except when you repeat, your body becomes tired. Re sending projected climbs only reinforces technique. Sometime you will find different beta because your body is tired. The great thing is, they are climbs that you've already sent so if you gauge your program properly, you should be able to send all the climbs in your routine.
3 by V3-I remember V3 and V4 being really hard grades to send. One of the exercises I started running was down climbing. So the second Pinnacle is getting three consecutive V3, up and down. I started by getting the three sets and then progressing into four sets.
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The Warm Up-I call this an assending set. So 4xV0, 3xV1, 2xV2, 1xV3. This example is perfect session for anyone trying to send their V3 project.
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The Project Set-This is along the lines of HIIT for climbing. Start your first set by ascending into your peak.For V5 it would be:
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Then on the third or last set, give your project a couple of runs. Don't expect to much, but every now and then, your have the power to get the send.
The Daniel Woods-Find a four group of problems you know you can on site. These problems should be at least two to three grades lower than your highest on site. Send all four problems in sequences and rest five minutes. Repeat until you reach 60 min. Then take a day off.
This routine is designed for elite climbers and should not be attempted by anyone climbing lower that V4.
The Crash
For those who haven't experienced it, your body does crash when you train it over a long period of time. It's important to observe your recovery time. You want to know how long it takes to recover between sets but more importantly, how long it takes you to recover from a heavy session. Recovery time is important when you want to maintain power over long periods of time. You need to rely on power enduranse for working on lead projects outside. So even though I now run my 4x4 sets in 30 minutes or less, it didn't start out that way. I started running 3x3 on rope and the down climb meant I was linking 125-150 moves in a row! The transition into bouldering was relatively easy and it took me a few years to reach the V5/V6 level. I know that it takes 48 hours for me to fully recover from a hard climbing session. For long periods of training, the crash is a lot more acute and can last a week or so. By setting goals and attaining Pinnacles, you can monitor when they are about to plateau and crash. This cycle will tell you when you can work on hard projects.